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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.